Maison Homura
2833
五 · Cloth — Fukuoka

Hakata-ori

The obi that does not come undone. That is the whole reputation.

Hakata-ori — Fukuoka
Fukuoka · Woven here since 1241

In 1235 a Hakata merchant named Mitsuda Yasozaemon sailed to Song China with the monk Enni Ben’en. He came back six years later with a way of weaving, and his family spent the next two centuries making it denser.

What they arrived at is a silk with an extraordinary number of warp threads and a thick weft beaten hard into them. The result is stiff, slightly ribbed, and it holds a knot. A Hakata obi creaks faintly as you tie it, and then it stays where you put it all day. Anyone who has worn kimono knows exactly how rare that is.

Hakata-ori — from the left
From the left
Hakata-ori — at the workshop
At the workshop
How it is made
  1. 糸染めItozome

    Silk thread is dyed first. Nothing is printed on afterwards.

  2. 整経Seikei

    Thousands of warp threads are laid — far more than an ordinary cloth needs.

  3. 製織Seishoku

    The weft is beaten hard into the dense warp, so the pattern is raised.

  4. 仕上げShiage

    Finished stiff. A Hakata obi creaks when it is tied, and then it does not slip.

From 1600 the Kuroda lords of Fukuoka sent a bolt of it to the shogun every year as tribute. The word for that offering is kenjō, and the striped pattern they sent — two Buddhist ritual implements repeated down the cloth — has been called kenjō ever since.

It is the craft of this city. We can walk to it.

Hakata-ori — from the right
From the right
From four sides
Hakata-ori — Front
Front
Hakata-ori — Left
Left
Hakata-ori — Back
Back
Hakata-ori — Right
Right
Notes
Fibre
Silk, yarn-dyed before weaving
The pattern
Dokko and hanazara — ritual implements, not flowers
Why kenjō
Sent to the shogun as tribute from 1600
The test
A knot that holds all day
About the place

The house is in Fukuoka, and Hakata is the older merchant half of it — the side of the river with the markets, the shrines and the workshops. Of everything in these rooms, this is the only craft made within walking distance.

Before the shelf

Pieces are found one at a time, in Japan, and photographed before they are listed. Tell us what you are looking for, and we will write when something arrives that answers it.

We write when there is something to write about — some months twice, some months not at all.